Last Updated on July 28, 2020 by Daniel Cooper
7 Reasons Why Your Plants Do Not Bloom: Do not your plants bloom as they should? What is promised is debt. I will explain some of the possible reasons why a plant will not give you the flowers you were waiting for. Maybe you think they have everything they need, but many factors can have a negative impact. Let’s review them in this guide.
Maybe you’re wondering right now, what is happening to my plant? You care for it, you take care of it with care, and yet it does not bloom. There are many causes why a plant fails to produce its flowers; or if he does, he shows them with suspicion. Last week I highlighted what I consider one of the main ones – it is the lack of light -. Today we are going to see the rest of “sticks of the deck.”
First of all, it must be noted that each species has its own requirements – it can only be generalized to a certain extent. The amount of light, the type of soil, the nutrients, the humidity, the water or the temperature that they can tolerate must be taken into account, among others. If you evade their most basic needs, it is very likely that the specimen will live badly or even die. Of course, do not expect me to give you beautiful flowers.
Table of Contents
The Lack of Light
Let’s start with the main course: with a review of what would be the lack of light for the plants (something common indoors).
Light is what makes photosynthesis possible, you know. Through this phenomenon, the plants are able to manufacture their own food. It is enough for them to combine the atmospheric carbon with the hydrogen of the water to form the chains of carbohydrates that they need so much.
Consequently, if the light were insufficient, there would be a lack of energy and these would be depleted in its most basic functions. A sparse or no flowering will be a logical reaction in any of the affected specimens. They would concentrate their reserves on the most precious thing for their survival. Flowers would be an unnecessary luxury.
In a prolonged situation of deprivation, the life of the plant will run, therefore, serious danger. If the plagues or diseases do not overcome their little resistance, it will end up perishing by the exhaustion of its reserves.
The exaggerated lengthening of the stems, desperately seeking light, is perhaps one of the most common symptoms and will manage to give you clues of what is happening there. Also, the uneven growth, oriented towards a window or another source of light is a good indicator. Do not let the situation continue or the leaves will start to lose their color and end up on the floor.
It has to be clear to you that there is not a standard amount of light for all the plants. According to its biology, each species likes a different quota in hours or intensity. Whether it’s outside or inside your home, you should know your preferences before looking for a definitive location.
For the same reason as above, the lack of minerals is another reason why a plant produces less quantity of flowers. In particular, the lack of phosphorus and potassium can cause a delay in flowering or that these are of small size or quality. It will also have an impact on the future growth of the fruit.
But do not put yourself now to fertilize “like a madman”; the excesses, in this case, are also not desirable. Too much nitrogen – mineral responsible, among others, for growth – could inhibit flowering at the expense of an exaggerated development of the plant. You would have a copy with constant buds, but without flowers.
To top it all, their abnormally tender tissues would be an exquisite snack for aphids and other pests. If you have to apply fertilizer on flower plants, use the one that does not promote such circumstances. The one with a low nitrogen ratio in relation to phosphorus and potassium will be the most indicated since it will facilitate flowering and not vice versa.
Equally important that the existence of mineral salts is the fact that they are in a position to be assimilated. Inadequate soil pH is another reason why a plant often suffers from deficiencies.
Leaving aside some exceptions, such as acidophilic plants or those who love alkaline soils, the pH range between 6.5 and 7 is the most convenient. This pH, considered neutral for the plants, is perfect for the great majority – with which the greater availability of nutrients occurs -.
It goes without saying that the water deficit is not desirable either, for its flowering or for the plant in general. Small irrigation would mean the weakening of the plant, the loss of its flowers, and also the leaves, or worse, its death. Watch out!
But, to avoid falling short, you should not go now. You will only get to rot the roots or favor the proliferation of fungi. You must water in its proper measure.
Pruning at an inopportune time is another circumstance that tends to ruin the bloom. It is convenient to know the dates in which your plants bloom, as well as where the flower buds are formed, before venturing with the scissors.
The hydrangea, for example, that blooms in the stems of the previous year, should be pruned in autumn or just after its flowers wither – better even than at the end of winter. If you do not risk that, when the time (spring and summer), the expected flowers do not appear or do so sparingly.
With such a scenario one might think that, in the face of doubt, the best thing is inaction. However, in most flower plants -such as rosebushes, jasmine or the previous ones- at least the removal of the old branches – since they are not going to flower – is convenient and, of course, the elimination of the already withered flowers, cutting at least a pair of buds below.
If step “you clarify the inside of the bush,” you will also get more light, and therefore you will get more flowering.
The flowers, once pollinated, will end up giving rise to the fruits and these may or may not interest us. If they are fruit or other horticultural or in the case that they ornament the plant, we will leave them. But not contributing anything, it is better to remove them; since they reduce energy to the plant and inhibit the new batch of flowers.
The late frosts are the big enemies of many fruit trees. This is the case for example of almonds and plums. These trees, early in terms of flowering – they do it before the leaves appear – are often punished during the spring by low temperatures.
If the climate where you live is prone to frost -even already entered in April-, it is better to choose varieties of less early flowers; If not, you will lose them, or they will be damaged.
In addition to the species or variety, latitude and weather conditions are also determinants. It is not the same if you are in the Mediterranean area and close to the coast than in the north or center of the peninsula. The flowers will appear up to a few weeks apart.
Speaking of the cold, we must also highlight the little encouragement of bees to fly below 10 ° C; something that will negatively affect pollination and therefore the fruits to come.
Another issue is the requirement of certain species, such as cherry trees, to accumulate cold hours. If they do not add up to a thousand hours below the 7ºc during the winter, flowers will be scarce when spring arrives.
Plagues and Diseases
You have already seen that a weak plant, for any of the reasons, will have more difficulties to flower. Of course, pests or diseases can be part of that decline. And, if not, they will end up taking advantage of it. You already know the saying: “a skinny dog, everything is fleas.”
In this case, they will not be fleas but aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, red spiders, or thrips, which will attack without hesitation the buttons in formation; next to other tender parts of the plant. Solve it in a simple way applying potassium soap or Neem oil.
The fungi such as powdery mildew or botrytis could also appear, with rising temperatures and damp weather, causing various damages, among others, the flowers are lost. In this case, you should tackle the problem with a polyvalent fungicide.
The Age of the Copy
It is also worth asking if the copy simply will not be too young or maybe it has reached its senescence. Plants like other living beings have their times and, depending on the species, take more or less to “enter into production.”
The seat of the mother-in-law (Echinocactus grusonii), for example, is one of those who enjoys making her wait. Once germinated, it will take more than fifteen years to bloom.
You’ve seen it; there’s no single cause to blame. Basically, it’s about knowing your plants, to provide them with what they need – no more, no less. The key is that they are in the best conditions to face the flowering and not spoil it, among other things, with pruning at the wrong time.
If your plant does not bloom as it should, with this guide, you can analyze point by point until you find a justification. It depends on you to remedy it.
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